A Video from Major Shaker Showing Real World Brushing
I get the same results trying to brush Vallejo that has been over-thinned or any “for airbrush” paint except Vallejo Model Air (so far). The “beading up” is what I’ve been complaining about. I imagine there are ways around this, but it’s important to understand that if you impregnate a grizzly bear in order to get a smooth finish on a stabilizer, you ain’t got anything but a pissed-off bear and one tiny part of a model with a little paint on it.
You need to be able to put that paint where you want it with pin-point accuracy. That takes control. All this malarkey about “thin coats” and “primer” just gets you to the Fast-Talking Salesman at the State Fair outcome– it looks good in that lighting for that guy while he steals your money.
To get good results requires much more from a paint than just a smooth finish in special circumstances. If that was all there was to it, I’d be President of the United States instead of watching the sands of my life’s hour glass whirl away writing this blog for you lovely people.
You need control. Fine, fine lines. Big wide areas. Little tiny stippling. The hands of little dudes. Spokes. Spooks. The blue of the flag of Le Belle France! The head of a pin and the angels that dance on it. You need a paint that does detail AS WELL as big flat areas on a good day when the wind is with you and you airbrushed on a basecoat and said your prayers.
I know what makes a good brushing paint. I’ll identify them one by one, on this blog, so that Odin may come along and exterminate them just to bust my balls at a later date.
In the meantime, don’t buy MiG Alley Super Jupiter with Benzene Ammo.