Doing Weird Things to Hataka Paint
My attempt to make Hataka paint a little more friendly.
This paint is shortening my life. The main problem is that it dries too damn fast. Mixing the red and blue lines into one paint (we shall call it…. PURPLE) is my feeble attempt to improve this. The reference is to Ghostbusters, but I’m sure you all knew that. Cross the streams, Egon. It’s the only way.
I bought one of the “sets” of this paint. Colours seem fine, and I didn’t have an issue with it, until…I tried varnishing with my MM acryl matt varnish.
Magic stuff the old MM Matt varnish. I can plop it on just about anything, even enamel paint (when it is dry mind) and perfect finish, no streakiness. Damn Testors to hell for closing the MM line down…thankfully I bought a few bottles before hand. Anyway…
When I applied this varnish over some dried Hataka blue paint, it suddenly turned a milky white colour, and almost ruined a model. Thankfully I stopped before I had covered much, and gently scrubbed away the stuff before it had fully set.
Why? Who knows. Some chemical with an unpronounceable name obviously didn’t like another chemical with an unpronounceable name. Meanwhile, we continue on our quest for the “Perfect Paint” and additions (hint, from my endless trials of paints in this day and age, we are fighting uphill).
If anyone knows how to get that Flux Capacitor working in the Delorean, let me know.
And I get asked why I stick to what works… it’s because the universe is full of an infinite number of things that don’t work. I experiment around like a mother… uh, like a scientist… guy,.. and I find out stuff but when I try something new I always assume the worst. I put Pollyscale Flat over Gunze Hobby Color and it went all weird…
It’s been years ago now. But sometimes, when the wind is just right, and the sage is in bloom, you can still hear me howling in pain…
I know you like to experiment, so have you tried Liquitex Slow-Dri/FlowAid with Hataka instead of having to purchase 2 bottles to get one decent one. You did it with Tamiya paints back in 2017 and it seemed to work.
My past rises up before me… or something. Gosh, I don’t remember that but it sounds like something I did before I discovered that Windex would tame Tamiya paint like nobody’s business.
Now the Hataka paint might just work better with a ton of retarder, and I admit that I haven’t tried it, but the real problem is that the colors do not behave consistently. One color is excellent and another is garbage. It’s just so darn frustrating…