An Update

While I’ve been “busy” with other things (not all of them pleasant) I’ve managed to neglect my little online world and cause many of my followers to wonder if I’m ever coming back.

Never fear. The “bad penny” effect is strong in this one!

Right now, at this moment, I’m just starting to actually go to work on my Patreon page. I now have two supporters, to whom I owe a tremendous debt of gratitude, and who will probably find my feeble attempts at thanking them to be both embarrassing and pointless.

The Roll of Honor (to be inscribed in granite on some rocks in Georgia)

Eugene DuBey

Michael Drapes

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

My blatant attempts to get money out of people have begun to pay off. Get it? Money? Pay off? I know, I know. Asperger’s humor at its finest.

I will, at some point, begin to ignore this blog. The “action” (ooh la la) will take place over at the Patreon “community” where I promise not to do anything rash. I’m just beginning to learn how this all goes. I’m also just learning to use the Shotcut editor to merge multiple camera angles. My laptop is just too weak to support high-end equipment, and so I’ll be using Shotcut for the time being, and it’s been working amazingly well, considering what it is.

My videos should start to look a lot better, in that I’m using my Android phone AND my webcam to shoot the videos from two angles, and keep everything in focus. No more out-of-focus or wandering out of frame (I hope). The last video I posted shows this to some extent, but the real test will be the next “real time” painting video.

This video will be applying the System 3 Silver Ink to a Tamiya P-47D to make a nice shiny version of good-old “Bonnie” shown here:

I’ll probably make one more “technical” video on natural metal finishes before I jump onto Bonnie.

I’ve been enjoying the ride, as far as my ongoing struggles to look and act normal are concerned. Unfortunately for all of you, I recently found a PASSEL of videos that tell me that acting “normal” is bad for people “on the spectrum” so I’ll be turning to the path of abnormality in the few months we have left before they sacrifice those red heifers and start The Apocalypse.

Just sayin…

9 Replies to “An Update”

  1. Damn you J&J.
    Yeha, I just looked up Floor polish. J&J have changed this probly 2 or 3 times in this decade.
    And it appears even the latest formula is not available. Product marketing already made it impossible to find under the old names, no more Future or Pledge.
    OK it is possible to find product that may or not be suitable for modelers.

    But you must be prepared to take out a loan to afford it…. going for stupid prices up in the $70’s
    and $hundreds. No sweat , I’ll find some on Ebay… Yep but, people are selling used bottles of the old stuff for $50 blackmail. WTFWTFWTF!!! ???
    And just to add loathing, I walked into walmart the other day and saw on the front display plain old Isopropyl at $4.00 , for the bottle that was 99pennies two years ago.
    If you have knowledge or living resources kindly inquire as to the path of Salvation.

    I finally decided on drastic measures for the Airfix Spitfire. I scrubbed off all the paint with Isopropyl, and located my can of Krylon Clear acrylic….. In the hope it may seal the plastic and provide a surface for Revell Aqua to behave like paint and not watercolors.

    1. Yeh I’m an idiot.

      Okay, Krylon was attempted; was another FAIL. Revell reacted very weirdly, it went on ok for a few brush fulls, then started looking like oil and water don’t mix. OK, I swirled it around at the edge and it allowed a couple more brushes then paint retracted again..and then the Krylon dried with a fine orange peel kind of look. Further on, and weirder, the reaction of Aqua and Krylon, and Airfix plastic, I think, seemed to soften everything and leave really strange brushmarks, even down into the krylon and plastic. ???
      Soo, I did some Krlyon research…. first lesson, never assume a product will work like you hoped it would.
      And then I came across a page where a professional Auto painter discussed painting over an acrylic sealer…. basically it’s a really bad idea.. to work, the sealer must be massaged in ways only an auto painter might try in an emergency??
      Basically I learned that Acrylic sealers have OILS in them which shed paint like off a ducks back kinda. So he said one could find some kind of oil remover, maybe; but not me.
      So after sanding off the small area of paint, I made a weak solution of Dawn and distilled water and cleaned the surfaces with Q-tips gently, then same with just water to rinse. So Spitfire is now waiting for me to try again….tomorrow. Will let you know what happens NEXT. OH .. also learned that Aqua dries on a brush so quickly it’s a chore to clean. I guess keep a pot of water and dunk the brush early and often, never let it dry more than 30 seconds I think.

  2. FAIL. Never mind all that previous stuff. Cleaning made Aqua goofier than ever.
    I also believe the paint I mixed to use, has become contaminated from brush dippings while painting on that contaminated surface.
    So one more paint removal with Isopropyl, and thorough rinsing with water. Now allowing model to dry under a warm lightbulb, all day, and then sit for a week. I think that plastic was never gonna lose the oils or what ever makes it so soft. Might be that plastic oozed oil over all the years since it was molded. At least I only have screwed the underside with all the nostrums.
    So will try covering that best I can, and then address the topside which has only been sanded so far.


  3. I’ve had trouble with Revell Aqua “beading up” on some plastic surfaces. No other paint (that I’ve used) does this.

  4. HMM OK, I won’t be buying more Aqua.

    The good news is It looks like there’s a near peer to J&J Pledge etc.

    It’s sold by Walmart – ‘QuickShine’ Multi-Surface Floor Finish. I saw a review video by a modeler who brushes on clear topcoats. Over paint, decals, clear parts, chromed plastic. It appears to be nearly identical to pledge in every aspect. Seems to have same/similar chemicals. Looks Identical to Pledge when it dries and is very self leveling. I’ll be buying a bottle tomorrow.

  5. First of all, thanks for doing these videos and blog. I’m new to modeling and have learned a lot from watching your channel so thanks for that.

    In you thinning video you demonstrate thinning vallejo paint with distilled water.

    If I take a normal Tamiya Jar, how many ML of windex should I use? What is the ratio?


    1. I understand your question– but that doesn’t mean I can answer it in the way that you would like. The fact is that thinning paint is a process that involves all the stuff that I’ve been shaking my cane at and threatening to call the law if those kids don’t get off my lawn. That means that you put the paint in a glass jar so you can see it and watch it while you stir it. Then you determine, based on “feel,” just how much thinning to add. It’s an integrated process that conflicts with any desire for order in the universe. You just have to dig it, man.

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